Category: dinghy

  • Tech Spotlight: Auxiliary Braking Systems

    The stakes are high enough when you drive a motorhome. And with your several-thousand-pound daily driver behind it, they’re even higher. Cruising the highway, you wouldn’t be the first person to worry: Is my car still back there? What if we hit a bump? And what happens if I have to slam the brakes? That’s where auxiliary braking systems come in.

    Dinghy towing has evolved over decades to put many such worries to rest. And when it comes to that last question—stopping power—auxiliary braking systems are designed to slow your tow vehicle at the same speed as your coach, which when combined with a tow bar, prevents your car from blasting through the back of your rig in an emergency. “From a very high level, auxiliary braking is the safest thing you can do aside from the tow bar,” says Doug Northcutt, RV towing products sales manager at Demco. “It makes the coach stop much quicker, and it helps people come to a stop 35 to 45 percent faster in a panic zone.”

    Auxiliary braking systems are required in most states, but the technology varies based on the manufacturer, the type of rig you drive, and whether or not you want the system permanently mounted in your tow vehicle. Here, we look at the most common systems and the brands behind them.

    auxiliary braking systems

    Photo Credit: Demco

    The Air Force One and the Stay-IN-Play DUO from Demco

    Demco has been a leader in towed-vehicle technology since the company was founded in 1964. And these days, coach manufacturers like Freightliner, Tiffin, and Spartan build chassis specifically to be compatible with Demco’s auxiliary braking systems.

    For diesel rigs, the Air Force One uses a pilot signal connected to the coach’s air brakes that delivers a proportional response to the towed vehicle, ensuring the dinghy brakes at exactly the same speed as the motorhome. “You just have to hook up the air hose and you’re off to the races,” Northcutt says. For gas motorhomes (without air brakes), Demco’s Stay-IN-Play DUO system uses the inertia from the towed vehicle, combined with the coach’s brake light signal, to create a proportional response in the dinghy’s brakes.

    auxiliary braking systems

    Photo Credit: NSA

    NSA RV Products ReadyBrake

    While some systems rely on electronics and air to trigger the brakes, the Ready Brake system from NSA is fully mechanical. So, when you slow your motorhome, the weight of the dinghy vehicle pushes forward on the hitch-mounted ReadyBrake system, triggering an actuating arm that is connected to the towed-vehicles brakes.

    auxiliary braking system

    Photo Credit: Roadmaster

    Roadmaster Brakemaster System

    The Brakemaster system from Roadmaster connects and disconnects from a towed vehicle in less than one minute, which means the system is not always in place. Instead, one end of the Brakemaster connects to the air or hydraulic lines of your coach, while the other is installed on the floor in front of the towed-vehicle’s driver seat. When you hit the brakes of your motorhome, a proportional response is applied to the dinghy brakes.

    auxilliary braking systems

    Photo Credit: Blue Ox

    Blue Ox Patriot 3

    Like the Brakemaster system, the Blue Ox Patriot series is not permanently mounted in the towed vehicle; rather, it attaches to the brake pedal and sits on the floor. What makes it different, though, is that it’s entirely electric, relying on an actuator that senses the braking force of the coach.

    This article originally appeared in Wildsam magazine. For more Wildsam content, sign up for our newsletter.

    The post Tech Spotlight: Auxiliary Braking Systems appeared first on RV.com.

  • How to Tow a Dingy

    Once you’re settled into a campground—leveled your rig, put out the awning and hooked up with power, water and sewer, extended the steps, covered the windshield and whatever else—the last thing you want to do is break camp. But you just found out you don’t have a key ingredient for dinner and need to go into town. Or you discovered the tourist attraction you want to visit doesn’t allow RV parking.

    Some folks find bicycles or lightweight motorcycles sufficient for running errands and local visiting. But a lot of motorhome owners prefer to tow a vehicle along with them, a practice called “dinghy towing.” Millions of travelers do this, availing themselves of the convenience of an extra set of wheels. Some affectionately call the towed vehicle a “toad.”

    RV dinghy towing

    Photo Credit: Getty

    Before you run out and impulse-buy a vehicle to tow, whether it’s used or new, it’s essential to determine a few things. First: How much weight is your motorhome rated to tow? You can often find the motorhome’s tow rating in the manufacturer’s specifications (or check with them). If the info is not available, start with the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). This should be on a label in the door jamb. Subtract the actual weight (fully fueled and loaded RV weight, including water and passengers) from the GCWR. For example, if the GCWR is 25,000 pounds and the actual fully loaded scale weight is 20,000 pounds, you have 5,000 pounds left available for towing. Do a Google search for “truck scales near me” for scale locations.

    You will need a hitch. Many motorhomes come with a trailer hitch, which is rated for up to 5,000 pounds. That’s enough for towing most cars, but not sufficient for all pickups and SUVs. Check to ensure that your prospective hitch has sufficient rating for what you will be towing. Look up the manufacturer’s curb weight for an estimate of what your proposed dinghy vehicle may weigh, and add for any cargo.

    RV dinghy towing

    Photo Credit: Curt

    Next, is the vehicle you are considering designed and manufacturer-approved to be towed long distances? Many vehicles are not. Towing them can lead to extremely expensive mechanical damage. Read the towing section of your prospective toad’s owner’s manual for instructions on how to tow it.

    There are several Dinghy Towing Guides available online, with listings organized by model year. These can be helpful in narrowing down what vehicle to use or to determine if one you already have is towable. These are found at Roadmasterinc.com, CampingWorld.com and others. (Wildsam’s sister website, RV.com, also has an extensive archive of dinghy-related material.)

    There are three basic methods for bringing a vehicle along: on a trailer; on a tow dolly; or “flat towing,” with all four wheels on the ground. Most folks prefer flat towing for its simplicity and convenience. But the paradox here is, the majority of vehicles are not flat towable, so be very cautious and make sure of what’s possible. If your towed vehicle has front-wheel drive and is thus not flat towable, you may need a tow dolly. If it is electric, has all-wheel drive or is otherwise not designed to be flat-towed, it may need to be hauled on a trailer.

    RV dinghy towing

    Illustration by Todd Detwiler

    In order to flat tow, you’ll need a mount to connect the tow bar to the towed vehicle. These are called baseplates and mount to the front structure of the vehicle, providing a solid place to attach a tow bar. Most baseplates are made by a few companies, including Blue Ox, Roadmaster and Demco. You’ll also need a tow bar, and these are made by the above-mentioned companies as well as NSA RV Products and some others. Make sure the tow bar is rated for the actual loaded weight of your dinghy vehicle, and that it’s compatible with the model baseplate you are using. Many folks prefer the type of tow bar that is left attached to the motorhome when the dinghy vehicle is detached.

    Now that you have the basics, in our next issue we will cover the various accessories and widgets that make dinghy towing safer and easier. Stay tuned!

    This article originally appeared in Wildsam magazine. For more Wildsam content, sign up for our newsletter.

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